U.S. 100% WOOL MUSEUM GRADE FOOT PATTERN TROUSERS
Schuylkill Arsenal pattern
William Deering pattern
If you are new to these pages, first please read all the information below. These paragraphs outline what details both the William Deering and Schuylkill Arsenal trousers possess. The measurement information is also very important.
OUR MUSEUM GRADE TROUSERS and SHARED COMMON FEATURES
Our 100% wool trousers are made in an excellent quality 21 ounce 100% wool loomed by Woolrich Woolen Mills. Fabric samples are always available upon request and at no charge.
Our "museum grade" trousers are machine sewn on the main seams - INCLUDING the Schuylkill Arsenal pattern - but feature EXTENSIVE hand sewing and hand sewn details throughout the rest of the trousers. Here are some additional features found on our MUSEUM GRADE trousers.
1. High waisted cut with correct sloping back body and tapered waistband
2. The outer edges of the woolen waistbands and fly panels are rolled back
slightly as found in the majority of original examples examined
3. All cuffs feature the sideseam split or vent
4. Hand felled two-piece cuffs with wool facings PLUS cuff split reinforcement patches
5. NARROW pattern fly panels
6. Hand felled waistband and fly facings
(Left side fly facings are brown polished cotton and the right
side is cotton drill as per original examples.)
7. Hand felled reinforcement patch on the rear waistband split
8. Right side watchpocket with a hand felled facing.
DEERING WATCH POCKET
is in the trouser body /
waistband seam and internally faced with wool. Corners are handtacked as per originals. The
SCHUYLKILL ARSENAL WATCH POCKET is in the trouser body/waistband seam also BUT has the external watchpocket facing (like a mini-vest pocket). Side edges on the SA watchpocket facing are handfelled) .
9. Sideseam pattern pockets with hand bar-tacking at the corners
10. Hand felled internal pocket facings
11. Hand felled cotton drill pocket/body seams
12. Hand topstitched pocket bags
13. Hand sewn buttonholes in fly and waistband
14. Hand sewn rear tie-back grommet holes with tie-back cord (not thin string)
15. Tin face paperbacked buttons - seven large on the waistband; five small in the fly.
PLEASE NOTE: It is
evident based on the majority of surviving relic Federal trousers that the FOUR button system for
suspender attachment was the most common - one per side on the front and one per side on the back.
We utilize SIX buttons for suspender attachment on our trousers solely out of convenience for our
customers, the majority of which have suspenders set up for a six point (6 button) attachment. If you
would prefer your trousers to have the FOUR button suspender set up, simply let us know and we will be
happy to accomodate.
16. Natural 100% cotton drilling (NOT muslin!) is used for
pocket inserts, waistband
facings and the right side fly facing
17. Correct period William Deering or Schuylkill Arsenal stamps on the pocket or waistband facing respectively.
18. Sewn entirely in medium dark blue 100% cotton thread
19. We wish to point out that all the handfelling on our trousers
is done using the period style "vertical felling
stitch" ... not your basic whipstitching!
Here are some clickable links to images showing MAIN body views, INTERNAL views some various DETAILS on a pair of Schuylkill Arsenal pattern trousers. PLEASE NOTE: These trousers demonstrate the hand top stitch option WHICH IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE.